Our Thoughts

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  • 16 April, 2015

    Emma Marris’ Rambunctious Garden argues our modern environmental movement’s raison d’etre, nature’s preservation in a pristine, prehuman state, is misguided. We Homo sapiens have been mucking about this planet for some 250,000 years now, leaving few spaces without our footprints. Science is accumulating evidence that suggests South America’s “wild” Amazon Basin has been sculpted by human management for well beyond 1,000 years. Mayan and some Asian tropical rainforests also prove to be long- ago human agricultural polycultures gone feral, further challenging a “myth of the pristine”. Where misguided preservationists won an upper hand, our own benignly neglected Sierra Nevada slopes, brush choked and densely forested, suffer monumental conflagrations. (more…)

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  • 15th April, 2015

    Emma Marris’ Rambunctious Garden argues our modern environmental movement’s raison d’etre, nature’s preservation in a pristine, prehuman state, is misguided. We Homo sapiens have been mucking about this planet for some 250,000 years now, leaving few spaces without our footprints. Science is accumulating evidence that suggests South America’s “wild” Amazon Basin has been sculpted by human management for well beyond 1,000 years. Mayan and some Asian tropical rainforests also prove to be longago human agricultural polycultures gone feral, further challenging a “myth of the pristine”. Where misguided preservationists won an upper hand, our own benignly neglected Sierra Nevada slopes, brush choked and densely forested, suffer monumental conflagrations. (more…)

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  • 9 April, 2015

    Bewildered over how to farm twenty sandy, rented acres east of Fresno’s Gallo winery in 1981, I recalled my former Newhall Land and Farming Co. superintendent Les “El Pescuezon” Travis’s experience. “I drove the neighborhood each morning, spying on farmers who appeared to know what they were doing”, recounted Les, who sought refuge as a tiller of soil following WWII military service. Providentially, where my Olive Ave. dead-ended into Fancher Creek, I discovered a pair of long-experienced market gardeners on opposite corners. On the north side, Japanese-American George Yagi meticulously tended vegetables on five acres of benched land, while across the way, African American Leon Poe cultivated fifteen creekside acres of same. (more…)

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  • 7 April, 2015

    We appreciate the hand-written notes from members expressing the deep impact of eating fresh, local and organic. The farm really reminds us of the seasonality of food now. We have so many plantings of tomatoes, squash, peppers, eggplant and cucumbers that it is almost a chore waiting for summer. But, once the weather heats up for good, we’ll be missing those delicious greens and roots. We have a few more weeks to savor sautéed spinach, potato pancakes and fresh carrots shredded into our salads. – denesse

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  • 2 April, 2015

    Back in 1979, Denesse and I married and purchased our first home in Dos Palos, a sleepy, off the beaten path little farm town. It didn’t appear much transformed on a return visit last Saturday in company of author Mark Arax and photographer Ernest Lowe after long absence. Black gumbo clay soils characterize the vicinity and a shallow water table can turn “floating” homes into fun house rides. Our back yard’s ground cracked wide enough to swallow Chihuahuas. Thirty-five years ago, successfully farmed crops were two, cotton and rice. I field-managed Rinks Sano’s thousand-acre Westland Water District farm some miles south over unpaved Fairfax Ave. and further west of Firebaugh. (more…)

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  • 1 April, 2015

    If you had a 1972 yearbook from Fresno’s Ahwahnee Jr. High, you might find a picture of the “Ecology Club” planting some trees around what was then, a brand new campus. Of those pictured, one became a high school English teacher, another a masseuse at Whole Foods Market, a third became a lawyer for Enron, another came to write a weekly vegetable newsletter and the star of our club became an engineer for California Department of Water Resources, later with the Regional Water Board, where she supervised the Compliance and Enforcement Unit in the Board’s Fresno office. JoAnne remained the truest to our “Ecology” roots and I’m so proud to have known her all these years after she, once again, shined the light on some local dirty doings.
    – denesse read story: bit.ly/19UP2W9

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  • 26 March, 2015

    What sort of inquiry might defuse controversy over whether compost-loving organic farmers like the Kaisers and Willeys are indeed “worst nitrate polluters” or responsible soil nutrient managers? Conclusive proof is only evidenced by employing a lysimeter. What’s that? Think underground, open-topped terrarium, buried beneath a farm soil’s growing crop. Researchers install lysimeters as catchment systems to intercept rain or irrigation water percolating through plant root zones towards an aquifer. That liquid is easily drawn off and accurately analyzed for nitrate and other soluble nutrients threatening water quality. So, has anyone utilized lysimeters to compare composted crop systems to those chemically fertilized? (more…)

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  • 24 March, 2015

    Only a few days ago, our winter kale and beets yielded their ground to the seedlings of summer; tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, squash and melons will soon prosper in that same ground. The generosity of living soil is unfathomable, it is eager to grow anything and seems indiscriminate in offering a chance at life for both food crops and weeds. – denesse

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  • 19 March, 2015

    Nitrogen is one exceedingly mysterious constituent of our big bang universe. Earth’s most abundant pure element, life-essential backbone of DNA / RNA blueprints, amino acids and proteins, paradoxically makes itself scarce. Air we breathe is 78% nitrogen, but an inert gaseous form that cannot be woven into life’s lattice work. Only after an immensely powerful attraction between twin nitrogen atoms is cloven at great energy expense does this element become reactive with unlike chemical elements for blending into life’s soup. Since time immemorial, until just a century ago, such molecule splitting was the exclusive domain of lightning and specialized soil bacteria. Over those eons, stingy nature ordered its dynamic duo to convert or ‘fix’ into life-available form barely one percent of Earth’s atmospheric nitrogen. (more…)

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  • 17 March, 2015

    My friend, Cecilia Sheeter, once described a moment of evening light when one feels as if its “thick golden sheen could be scooped out of the air.” To me, the spring air has that same feel, it is dense with all the promise of a new year. Bud break in grapes is my favorite week of this, my favorite season. A field of nascent green is suspended over the earth on a squat army of gnarled trunks. Years of past mistakes, misgivings, and missed opportunities are the wood of the vine, nourishing the tender young shoots. Their vigor holds so much enthusiasm; even our human losses seem diminished. This is Mr. Willey’s most stressful time of year. To him, all that spring potential is fraught with tension, danger and toil. With literally hundreds of tasks, for dozens of crops, to be completed in an ever-narrowing window of time and temperature, deciding each day’s priorities seems perilous. “Silty, sandy, muddy Earth, we savor God’s ardent endowment in you. Make us worthy stewards of your robust gifts, in wonderment and fright we witness life renew.” -denesse

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  • 12 March, 2015

    Plants speak the language of fragrance. Rosemary Nachtigall became fluent in that tongue and over three decades interpreted it for thousands of visitors, from Earth’s every corner, at the Squaw Valley Herb Gardens she and husband Tim Friesen created just outside Kings Canyon National Park. Her towering, sequoia-like presence was felled several weeks ago by a malady whose name she refused to utter or permit anyone to speak in her presence. Rosemary was born into Reedley’s 1948 close-knit, sheltering, Mennonite farm community, during an era when families could yet modestly thrive in middle class circumstance on 20 acres of Thompson Seedless raisin grapes, or in the Nachtigalls’ case, a few Santa Rosa Plums for good measure. (more…)

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  • 10 March, 2015

    We have just planted our first cucumbers and tomatoes under protective row covers. With continuing dry weather, we plan to transplant over 100,000 seedlings coming out of Kenny Lucero’s greenhouse over the next six weeks. Where winter crops have grown, Mr. Willey conducts the highly choreographed, rapid transition of shredding, discing, chiseling, bed-forming and mulch-laying that are key to the productivity which allows us to employ nearly 50 people year round on our 75 acres. People, machines and nature in concert, feeding you the best! – denesse

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  • 5 March, 2015

    Only an improbable “March Miracle” replay can now rescue San Joaquin Valley cities and farms from a calamitous fourth year of drought. I had our farm’s deep well pump tested recently, fully expecting to measure a water level decline of 30 feet after Madera’s unprecedented summer of bone-dry canals. When the technician announced a 10-foot drop and 200 gallons per minute (GPM) flow loss, I counted T&D Willey Farms lucky. Days later, I rumbled north in company of less fortunate drought victims on a bus caravan to Sacramento where our State Water Resources Control Board considered a petition to allow modest increases in amounts of water pumped south from the Delta’s winter storm flows. (more…)

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  • 3 March, 2015

    The soil now gets a rumpling soft and damp,
    And small regard to the future of any weed.
    The final flat of the hoe’s approval stamp
    Is reserved for the bed of a few selected seed.

    There’s seldom more than a man to a harrowed piece.
    Men work alone, their lots plowed far apart,
    One stringing a chain of seed in an open crease,
    And another stumbling after a halting cart.

    To the fresh and black of the squares of early mould
    The leafless bloom of a plum is fresh and white;
    Though there’s more than a doubt
    if the weather is not too cold
    For the bees to come and serve its beauty aright.

    Wind goes from farm to farm in wave on wave,
    But carries no cry of what is hoped to be.
    There may be little or much beyond the grave,
    But the strong are saying nothing until they see.

    1936 Robert Frost

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  • 24 February, 2015

    Leeks are one of the oldest cultivated Alliums, related to both the Lily and the Amaryllis families. Leeks add a subtle touch to recipes without overpowering other flavors. Their soft texture is essential in making flavorful winter soups with other cool season crops like kale, chard, turnips, potatoes, and carrots. Alliums have been well-researched and found to reduce total cholesterol and LDL, or “bad” cholesterol levels, at the same time helping to lower blood pressure, moderating the risk of heart attack and stroke. Just two servings per week is associated with reduced rates of prostate, ovarian and colon cancers. The combination of manganese, vitamin B6, vitamin C, folate, and iron make leeks particularly helpful in stabilizing blood sugar, slowing absorption of sugars to ensure their proper metabolism in the body. Martha Stewart has 39 leek recipes on her website including Fettuccine, Leek & White Beans which was eaten heartily by our vegetarian son Patrick, this past week. Halve Leeks lengthwise, from top to bottom and wash well under cold running water. Use the tough, dark green portion of the stalk to add flavor to soup stock.–denesse Willey

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  • 19 February, 2015

    Our annual Great Central Valley “Bee-in” is underway. This “Gathering of the Tribes”, some 24 billion Apis mellifera from all North America, won’t be lounging about in Golden Gate Park. Worker bee legions are here to pollinate the vastness of California almonds, now approaching one million acres. With each orchard acre displaying up to 10 million attractive, pollen-laden blooms, Apis visitors will indeed be characteristically busy. However, a monotonous almond blossom diet does not a healthy bee make, any more than we humans thrive on bread alone. It’s increasingly clear that current average 30% overwinter colony losses, double what was considered normal just a few years back, derives in significant part from diminished bee pasture, natural environments where floral diversity provides foraging Apis a broad range of immune-boosting nutrients. (more…)

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  • 17 February, 2015

    The lengthening days make a farmer’s pulse quicken, as much from fright as anticipation. We have finished digging our winter potatoes. That crew has now begun to cut seed potatoes for spring planting. Truck after truck arrives at the farm with composts made from either dairy manure or urban yard greens. Our neighbor, Tom Bursey, broadcasting the dark, earthy fertilizer, drives in between white bags neatly marking the fields. Moments later, powerful tractors work fresh microbial food into the awakening soil. Flocks of small birds follow the disk, looking to pick off an easy snack. – denesse

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  • 12 February, 2015

    National Public Radio’s food and agriculture correspondent Dan Charles was in town the other day. The radio man journeyed from our nation’s capital to the Valley to report on farm labor issues, our long-simmering immigration crisis in particular. Calling ahead to inquire if I’d speak on that delicate subject, we cut a deal — Dan would appear as my “Down on the Farm” radio guest where we’d discuss labor. I’d negotiated similar choppy waters back in October with Fresh Fruit, Broken Bodies author Dr. Seth Holmes who encouraged Charles to look me up. Unfortunately, most farmers are uncomfortable talking about this issue, obviously concerned for both our businesses and employees’ wellbeing. (more…)

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  • 29 January, 2015

    Fresh ideas abound at our ongoing Eco Farm Conference, as they have over now thirty-five annual organic confabs. This year’s event is all abuzz about “carbon farming”. Querying many farmers on the role carbon plays in their agricultural practice would yield blank stares or stammerings. After all, carbon is not something we buy in a sack and add to the recipe, like nitrogen or potassium. However, 2,000 attendees are this week absorbing, possibly for the first time, profound awareness that the business of all life on planet Earth, including that shepherded by agriculturalists, is essentially cycling carbon. EcoFarm presenters explain that while a relatively small portion of the “stuff of life” floats about Earth’s atmosphere, twice that amount of carbon resides in our soils, with the lion’s share deep in oceans. At any point in time, barely 1% of Earth’s total carbon store is temporarily incorporated into its living beings. I lobbied all last year that my friends Paul and Elizabeth Kaiser of Sebastopol’s Singing Frogs Farm be invited to demonstrate how they harvest $250,000 in organic vegetables from 2.5 acres without tilling their soil. If Thomas Jefferson held that “cultivators of the earth are the most virtuous”, why did Paul and Elizabeth renounce their birthright? They, among few, understand that our nation’s virgin soils, on average, harbored more than twice the carbon in organic matter as they do a few years after being subjected to the plow. Like bellows on a forge, tillage forces an oxygen blast into a soil’s living system, where under natural conditions this gas only diffuses slowly. Supercharged microbes respond by consuming organic matter at an accelerated pace, blowing off CO2 into the atmosphere. In fact, since agriculture’s dawn, humans’ soil plowing released more carbon into Earth’s atmosphere than had our burning of fossil fuels until 1955. With 40% of this planet’s dry land surface now managed for human food production, astute soil scientists estimate that all the miscreant, climate-disrupting carbon in our atmosphere could be sequestered in agricultural soils where it once safely rested. To forestall climate chaos, the world’s farmers would necessarily abandon an age-old tillage habit. Some actually have, few of these vegetable farmers, even fewer yet organic practitioners. Satisfy your curiosity about Paul and Elizabeth’s small, organic, tractor-less miracle, where little time is spent yanking weeds, by reading Todd Oppenheimer’s “The Drought Fighter” in a new online quarterly magazine, Craftsmanship. –Tom Willey

    Craftsmanship: bit.ly/15qYbCN

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  • 22 January, 2015

    Denesse and I are headed to a 35th annual EcoFarm Conference at Pacific Grove’s Asilomar this week. Many organic farmers were first awakened to complex life underfoot at that venue some twenty years ago when pioneering soil microbial ecologists Elaine Ingham and Vicki Bess made rousing presentations. However, as each strove to develop commercial, practical methods for characterizing the diversity and health of vast, largely invisible, living communities in farmers’ soils, animosity ensued. Bess, while admitting fewer than 5% of soil-dwelling species could be grown on artificial media, argued that a handful she cultured in petri dishes were indicative of the many. Ingham insisted on direct microscopic observation, even though she could not distinguish one bacterial species from another and fungi’s value could only be inferred from hyphal width. (more…)

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